These few list will change your Success rate and save you $$$
Before Your First Flight…. Airplanes and Transmitters
Balance
- Is the longitudinal center of gravity (fore and aft) within the range shown on the plans?
- Is the model balanced laterally (side to side)?
Alignment
- Are all the flying surfaces at the proper angle relative to each other?
- Are there any twists in the wing?
- Do the wings and, where removable, the tail-plane seat properly on the fuselage every-time?
- Is the engine set at the proper thrust angle as shown on the plans?
Control Surfaces
- Are all control surfaces securely attached? (i.e., hinges glued, pinned). Pull on each one to test.
- Are the control horns secured to the model?
Control Linkages
- Have all the linkages been checked to be sure they are secure?
- Are all the clevises closed? (keepers or fuel tubing should be fitted to ensure they stay closed)
Engine / Motor Security and Operation
- Are all engine mount screws tight, including mount to bulkhead if applicable?
- Is the propeller nut and/or spinner tight?
- Does the throttle work without binding?
- Does the throttle trim tab shut down the engine?
- Has the propeller been balanced and checked for damage?
- Are propeller tips painted a contrasting color? (whilst not essential it makes the propeller much easier to see)
- Has the engine been thoroughly test run? (engine idle and throttle up properly)
- Is the fuel tank installed correctly? (i.e., carburetor at the same height as fuel tank, fuel tank klunk in proper position and moving freely, fuel lines in good condition and connected to the engine correctly)
Radio Equipment
- Are the receiver and battery securely mounted and padded with foam to protect from vibration and shock?
- Are all electrical connectors secure?
- Is the receiver’s antenna fully extended and in good condition?
- Are the batteries charged and in good condition (check under load with a volt meter if unsure)?
- Are all servo securely fastened to the rails or trays?
- Are servo arms firmly attached with screw in place?
- Are all push rods firmly secure in servo arms (again keepers or fuel tubing should be fitted)?
- Are the control throws in the correct direction with proper amount of deflection (as per plan)?
- Rudder & Tail-wheel: Left stick should move the rear of the rudder and tailwheel to the left.
- Nose-wheel: Left stick should move the front of the Nose-wheel to the left
- Aileron: left stick should move left aileron up and right down.
- Elevator: Pulling back on the stick should move the back of the elevator up.
- Canard: Pulling back on the stick (elevator) should make the front of the canard move up
- Throttle: With trim set fully forward, pushing the stick forward should open throttle fully. With trim set fully backward, pulling stick back should fully close the throttle.
- Has a full range check been performed? (see below)
Undercarriage (where fitted)
- Is the undercarriage firmly attached to air-frame and the wheels securely retained?
- Does aircraft taxi in a straight line?
General
- Is the covering tight with no visible signs of damage?
- Are all retaining bolts in place and secure?
- Are any hatches, cowls and canopies secure?
- Are all components structurally sound?
- Are your name and contact details marked on the model somewhere easily visible? (in case it’s lost).
Range Checking the radio
- Verify frequency is available and mark it as yours if necessary.
- Turn on transmitter check the correct model is selected (if applicable) and then turn on the receiver.
- Important: make sure the transmitter aerial is down fully.
- Ask someone to help and walk away from the model until signs if loss of control are apparent.
- If electric powered ensure that the range is not worse with the motor running.
Before EVERY flight:
- Verify your frequency is available and mark it as yours if necessary.
- Check the receiver battery pack to ensure enough charge for the flight intended.
- Check for damage and the control throw direction of all surfaces.
- For fuel powered models:
- Turn on the transmitter and check the correct model is selected (if applicable) and then turn on the receiver.
- Start the engine and test the entire throttle range ensuring an consistent idle and acceleration response.
- Check the engine at full throttle with the plane’s nose straight up in the air? (to make sure it won’t stall when full power is applied on climb out)
- Take the model out to the strip and warn people you are about to take off.
- As soon as you land switch off the receiver.
- Switch off the transmitter and release the frequency for others to use.
- For electric models:
- Turn on the transmitter and check the correct model is selected (if applicable).
- If the model has a receiver battery then switch on the receiver.
- Ensure the throttle is in the correct position and connect the motor battery.
- WARNING: The motor must now be considered live as the motor could start at any time without warning (possibly due to interference or faulty controller).
- Arm the controller if necessary and briefly check the motor functions correctly.
- Take the model out to the strip and warn people you are about to take off.
- As soon as you land disconnect the motor battery and switch off the receiver if necessary.
- Switch off the transmitter and release the frequency for others to use.
RC RACING CHECKLIST… Car and Transmitter
1) Arrive at RC track. This means you’re not at work; today is already a great day.
2) Unpack your gear and find everything there; you didn’t leave your radio 50-miles behind at home this time.
3) Stare at your clean car and imagine how great it will run after that 6hr wrench session 2 days ago. Run some practice laps.
4) Narrowly avoid shearing the entire car in half as beginner drives 14lb monster truck backwards down the straightaway; regain composure.
5) Sign up to race.
6) Walk back to pits to write your personal transponder number on your hand in Sharpie marker.
7) Actually sign up to race this time; pay with money earned by selling off that old 1/10-scale you didn’t want anyway.
8 ) Sit at pit table, notice how busy everyone else is, and act like you’re wrenching on your car even though you’re certain it doesn’t need it.
9) Say hello to that guy who’s just arriving and hauling all of his stuff into the pits. You race with him every week…what’s his name again? “Hey man!”
10) Try to start up your nitro buggy and look stupefied when it doesn’t start on the first, second or tenth attempt.
11) Toss car underneath your pit table in disgust; discreetly fill the fuel tank with fuel, making sure no one sees you.
12) Clean off your pit table and slowly push that guy’s huge hauler bag out of your pit personal pit area.
13) Check out the heat sheets to see which race you’re in.
14) Walk back to pits, relax. Talk to some friends about what tires you’re using today, or which set up you downloaded from the interwebz.
15) Ask which race you’re in again, since you’ve already forgotten.
16) First qualifier; just get a clean run in and then try to go fast in the second round.
17) Second qualifier; a clean run would help, since that marshal totally screwed you over in the first round.
18) Marshal the next race; feign energy and enthusiasm as you imagine that jerk marshal’s car flipping in front of you and you calmly sitting there, staring at it, refusing to marshal it.
19) Prep your car for the Main; find screw half way out of chassis and temporarily “fix” stripped hole with CA glue until you can get a new bulkhead.
20) Hope those other 7 temporary fixes from previous weeks hold through just one more main.
21) Start the main & feel the adrenaline pump as the tone sounds.
22) Wonder if your adrenal gland has exploded after backmarker jumps the start and pulls a PIT maneuver on you in first corner.
23) Work your way through traffic from last place; scream out “LEEEEADER!” as you pass each competitor, whether you’re leading or not.
24) Pull in for pit-stop at 7-minutes; regain composure again as rookie pit man fumbles, drops fuel bottle and attempts to fuel car on the ground in pit lane.
25) Blast through lap traffic, justifying unsportsmanlike conduct by convincing yourself “it’s just payback” for that time that guy took you out, 3 weeks ago.
26) Act like you didn’t take anyone out by high-fiving each driver on the stand after your race, smiling and saying “Dude, awesome race!”
27) Walk back to pits, drop car on pit table, check your cell phone.
28) Hear announcer calling you out by name for not marshalling immediately after your race.
29) Sprint to the track, waving hand and mumbling “I’m here!” to avoid lap deduction from your main.
30) Clean your car, pack up your gear, and avoid that marshal you’d like to give a piece of your mind. Does he realize his laziness just ruined your entire day?!
31) Drive to In & Out with your racing buddies, replay the day’s events, and scarf down a double-double, animal style. Forget all about that stupid marshal.
32) Wrench on your car for several hours and do it all again next week.